Whether you’re becoming a freelance fashion designer, starting your own brand (spoiler alert, it isn’t worth it) or looking for your dream job, these are the fashion industry terms and abbreviations you should be familiar with.
I’ve created this comprehensive list after 15+ years working in the industry. You don’t have to memorize them all today, but it’s good to be aware of most of them. And depending on whether you’re working as a fashion designer, technical designer, product developer, merchandiser, or some other role, some will be more relevant than others.
If you want a quick fix, you can check out my list of the 18 Must-Know Terms to Work in the Fashion Industry.
Design isn’t just “design.” Industry-specific terms define how a garment is designed and constructed and how it’s prepared for sampling and production. If you want to impress hiring managers and freelance clients, this stuff is essential!
A visually curated collection of images, colors, and textures designed to inspire a particular feeling or atmosphere, serving as a creative reference for design projects.
If you want some tips on creating one, you can check my Guide on How to Create Fashion Design Mood Boards.
A compilation of visual elements, such as images, patterns, and colors, that reflects design trends. This helps designers in conceptualizing new collections.
A display showcasing the complete ensemble of garments in a fashion collection. A line-up provides a comprehensive overview of styles, themes, and aesthetic coherence of a collection. This is usually done by creating a series of fashion illustrations or technical sketches.
The outline or shape of a garment or object.
Example: Pencil, a-line, mermaid skirt silhouettes
A 2 dimensional sketch usually done in black and white with accurate design details such as stitching, trims, etc. Flat sketches are sometimes filled with color or patterns to show colorways in your tech pack or for presentations.
Learn how to sketch flats in Illustrator with my free course.
Did you know? You can be a freelancer and exclusively offer fashion flats (like two of our Freelance Accelerator: from Surviving to Thriving (FAST) grads, Brittany and Arya). It’s a great way to kickstart your fashion career without any experience.
A flat sketch with text callouts to specify various design details.
Pro Tip: A tech sketch should not be an artistic representation of the design but rather a flat 2d drawing to show accurate details.
The exact color that you’ve picked for your design that’s used as a benchmark (standard) for all production.
Example: Industry-recognized books such as Pantone or Scotdic are often used to choose color standards.
Pro Tip: The rainbow of color in industry books can be limited. So while not ideal, some designers will use a piece of material (fabric, yarn, or even paint chips) as a color standard to match a unique shade or hue.
A product in a specific color.
Example: If you offer the same jacket in Olive and Deep Sea, you have 2 colorways.
The instruction manual to create your product (like a set of blueprints). At minimum, a tech pack includes:
Example: A tech pack can be used by your factory to create a perfect sample (without them asking any questions). This probably won’t happen and questions are inevitable, but keep the goal in mind: provide thorough instructions that are easy to follow.
Pro Tip: Your tech pack is also used to track approvals, comments and changes made to the product throughout the development cycle. It acts as a master document that both the factory and the design / development team will reference.
Part of your tech pack, the BOM is a master list of every physical item required to create your finished product.
Example:
Pro Tip: You know the instruction sets you get from Ikea with a list of every item included in the product? That’s kind of like a BOM!
The type (i.e. unit) of measurement used for various items or parts of your product.
Example:
Included in your tech pack, it’s a chart of POMs (Points of Measure) for your product in all sizes.
The difference in measurements as sizes go up or down.
Example: If the body length of a size M shirt is 27” and a size L is 28”, the body length grades 1” between sizes.
Pro Tip: Grading is not a perfect science and for production line manufacturing, it should be done by a professional like a pattern maker or technical designer. As certain measurements grade up or down, the grading severity may decrease.
Specific points on your product that are defined and used for measurement. Most often they’re measured on a flat product (not on the body).
Example: A POM code for half chest width may be “across chest 1” down from underarm.”
Pro Tip: POMs are not universal and must be specifically defined. You can create your own definitions and sketches with the help of my Guide on Measuring Garments and Creating Points of Measure (POM).
The center of your garment running vertically along the front.
The center of your garment running vertically along the back.
The opening in a garment where the arm fits through.
The highest point of the shoulder on your garment, not including any part of the collar.
The seam that runs along the side of your garment. Some garments like leggings or circular knit sweaters may not have an SS.
Where the inseam and the front / back rise meet.
The total measurement from one point to another.
A basic pattern that is used as a foundation to develop other styles.
Example: You would have different blocks for tops, dresses and bottoms, but there may be crossover for some measurements to ensure consistent fit across styles.
Pro Tip: If you’re a home sewer, you may call this a sloper.
A human-shaped model usually made of foam, fiberglass, or plastic. It’s used by designers and sewers to create and adjust clothing. It helps make sure clothes fit well and look good by providing a realistic body shape to work with.
Knit fabrics are made by interlocking yarns in loops, creating a stretchy and flexible textile.
Example: jersey, rib knit, and interlock
Pro Tip: Knit fabrics are ideal for garments that require stretch and flexibility, like activewear and casual wear. They contour to the body and provide comfort and ease of movement.
Wovens are fabrics created by weaving threads together at right angles, resulting in a more structured and less stretchy material.
Example: cotton, denim, and silk
Pro Tip: Woven fabrics are often used for garments that benefit from structure, such as button-up shirts and tailored pieces. They hold their shape well and are less prone to stretching.
Pro Tip on Knits vs. Wovens: In fashion, knits and wovens stand out as the two main fabric categories. Bigger fashion brands often designate separate roles for knit and woven designers, as each category requires specialized skills and expertise. For instance, you might encounter designers specializing as a men’s knit designer or a woven dress designer.
The number of stitches per inch / centimeter.
The area between the edge of the fabric and the stitch line. The amount can vary from 1/4 inch to several inches.
A finishing stitch that is done on top of the product with a single needle.
A finishing stitch that is done on top of the product with a double needle to create two parallel stitches.
The most common stitch done with a single needle on a machine using a top thread and a bottom thread that are “locked” together.
A double or triple needle stitch on one side and “zig zag” loops on the other. The loop side is often inside the garment and is used to “cover” raw edges, but in activewear it may be on the outside as a design detail.
A sewing technique where the seam allowance is stitched to the facing or lining, preventing it from rolling to the garment’s exterior and helping maintain a smooth, polished edge.
Stitching on the top side of a product as a decorative feature.
Stitching parallel to a seam edge on the top side of a product. Often done to secure a serged seam flat or a set-on detail (i.e. pocket) and create a more finished look.
A series of stitches that loop together like a chain.
A line where two pieces of fabric are stitched together, creating a join in a garment.
A sturdy seam where the raw edges of the fabric are enclosed by folding one side over the other and stitching them closed together. It’s commonly used in denim or sportswear for durability.
The seam that runs along the inner leg of pants or trousers, connecting the front and back panels.
A triangular fold or tuck in the fabric used to add shape and contour to a garment. Often seen in the bust, waist, or back areas.
Fabric cut diagonally across the grain, allowing it to drape gracefully and follow the wearer’s natural curves.
The slight addition of extra fabric to a garment pattern to allow for comfortable movement and a relaxed fit.
The self-finished edge of a fabric, preventing fraying or unraveling, often found on high-quality fabrics.
The direction of the threads in a woven fabric, typically aligned parallel to the selvedge, crucial for proper fabric placement and garment construction.
The threads that run vertically in a woven fabric, from the top to the bottom. They run parallel to the selvedge.
The threads that run horizontally, from side to side, in a woven fabric. They run perpendicular to the selvedge.
The number of knit stitches per finished inch.
Example: A smaller gauge (1GG) will be a chunkier knit and a larger gauge (16GG) will be a finer knit.
Learn how to measure gauge here.
Being prepared with the appropriate assets and presenting them in industry standard formats will facilitate the production and logistics process. With the right planning, factories will understand your needs better and will take you more seriously. It’s also an additional service you can offer freelance clients
The smallest quantity of products a supplier is willing to sell in a single order.
Example: If a manufacturer’s MOQ is 100 units, customers must purchase at least 100 units to complete the order.
The time it takes from placing an order to receiving the goods. This is important to take note of if you want to make sure you can plan and coordinate your operations effectively.
A manufacturer who can cut your fabric, make your product, and apply trims (buttons, labels, hang tags, etc.). You provide all the raw materials, they do the physical assembly.
Pro Tip: You can save costs and gain control using a CMT vs a FPP (defined below)…but it can also be a lot more work for you since you have to source and coordinate delivery of all physical materials to your CMT.
A manufacturer who offers every service you may need from design to pattern drafting and sample making to production. Listen to interviews these interviews on the SFD podcast to learn more about how different FPP providers work:
Pro Tip: The FPP is a one stop shop that can cost you more, but they may not require you to do everything with them. If you have designs and tech packs, they can manage sourcing and production. You may be able to pick and choose just the services you need.
An ODM is a company that specializes in creating clothing items based on specific design requirements provided by another brand.
Example: A fashion brand may collaborate with an ODM to produce a unique line of dresses according to their custom design specifications.
A manufacturer that produces clothing items to be sold by another brand under the latter’s label.
Example: A fashion brand may partner with an OEM to manufacture a collection of garments using the manufacturer’s existing specs.
A retail fulfillment method where a store doesn’t keep the products it sells in stock. Instead, when a store sells a product, it purchases the item from a third party and has it shipped directly to the customer.
The country that a product is produced in.
Example: If fabric is imported from Taiwan and trims come from China, but the product is cut and sewn in the US, your COO is USA.
Goods that are in the process of being made at the factory but not finished. These goods are not counted as part of inventory yet.
A template or pattern layout that guides the efficient cutting of fabric, minimizing waste. It helps optimize the use of materials during the production process.
A streamlined and efficient manufacturing process in the fashion industry where garments are systematically assembled by workers at different stages along a conveyor belt. Each person does a particular task to quickly and efficiently make many clothes of the same kind.
Example: One person is tasked with sewing the sleeves, the next adds buttons, and so on.
A small fabric swatch (~2×3 inches) that your factory dyes and submits for color approval to make sure it matches your color standard. Lab dips are typically sent with 2-4 options so you can choose the best match.
Pro Tip: Lab dips should be reviewed in a light box with controlled settings (D65 Daylight is most common) and it’s essential to compare them to other approved submits in addition to the original color standard. Subtle shade or hue variations can be compounded and this will ensure your fuchsia leggings match your fuchsia jacket even if they’re different fabric qualities.
Printed artwork that the factory submits for approval. It can be for any type of printing (screen, sublimation, etc.) and any type of artwork (repeating pattern, placed/engineered prints, etc.).
Pro Tip: Strike-offs may be submitted on available fabric and ink colors so always ask what you’re approving – color, repeat, layout, hand feel, etc.
A larger swatch of fabric (~8×8 inches) that is cut from the bulk bolt for your approval. It should match the approved lab dip in color and be the correct quality, weight and construction.
Pro Tip: This is your bulk fabric approval and should be kept to compare to production or used as a reference for future orders.
Knit fabric that the factory submits for knit structure, design and layout approval.
Pro Tip: Knit downs may be submitted in available yarn colors so always ask what you’re approving – color, repeat, layout, construction, etc.
Woven fabric that the factory submits for construction, design and layout approval before bulk fabric is made. Handlooms are manually on a machine called a handloom (yes, both the fabric swatch and the machine are called handlooms…).
Pro Tip: Handlooms may be submitted in available color yarns so always ask what you’re approving – color, repeat, layout, construction, etc.
One of many types of fabric, greige is fabric that has been knit or woven but not yet bleached, dyed or finished. Fun fact, greige is a combo of the words “gray” and “beige” because it’s usually that color!
Pro Tip: You can keep greige for frequently used fabrics in stock at the factory. This can speed up production time by 30-60 days. But beware! Greige has a short shelf life (~3 months) before it starts to deteriorate, so you’ll need to make sure you can use it quickly.
A sample to make sure various (or all parts) of the product are executed correctly. Protos are often made with the closest available trims and fabrics and are used to check fit, construction, and detailing.
Pro Tip: Depending on the complexity of your design, factory expertise, and how long you have (or haven’t) worked with them, you may need multiple protos to execute your vision. One or two is standard and three is acceptable. Any more and you may not have a good factory match.
The last sample sent for approval before production begins. It should be 100% correct for fit, design, color, trims, etc. It’s your last chance to make changes or catch mistakes… and even then they may be unfixable.
Example: If a hang tag or label is in the wrong place, this can be fixed for production. But some things like fabric color or quality can’t be fixed since it’s already developed.
Pro Tip: If you do notice something “unfixable” in the PP sample, compare it to approvals (i.e. the head end / header for fabric color or quality). If it matches the approval, there’s no recourse. If it doesn’t match the approval, let your factory know right away. Depending on how bad the mistake is, you can negotiate a discount or require it be redone (which can cause production delays).
A sample pulled from the top of the production line. It’s used as a reference for what bulk production should look like.
Pro Tip: If you notice a mistake in the TOP sample… it’s too late, production is done. But, you may have recourse. Compare it to the PP approval and if it doesn’t match, let your factory know right away.
A set of samples in the full range of sizes offered. Size runs should be measured flat and tried on fit models to make sure they fit well in all sizes.
Pro Tip: Depending on design complexity, how many similar styles you have, and how long you’ve worked with the factory, a full size run (every size, i.e. XS, S, M, L, XL) may be required. Other times, a jump size run (every other size i.e. XS, M, XL) is enough.
A person who maintains their physical size and tries on products to make sure it fits well. They are typically not “standard” runway model size, but rather the size of your customer.
Pro Tip: Some fit models will not only try on the product, but will wear or use them in real life settings and provide feedback. This is common in activewear, performance products or other goods that must withstand certain uses.
Did you know? A lot of fashion freelancers wonder how to do patternmaking and fittings remotely. You have a lot of options! Check out a few SFF podcast episodes from our FAST grads including Alison on episode 103 & 149 / 150 and Alexandra on episode 134 – both of whom do remote patternmaking.
The middle size in your size range. It is the default size that will be used for protos and other samples.
Example: If your size range is 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, your fit size may be 6 or 8.
Pro Tip: Typically the fit model will be the same size as your fit size.
The size your SMS (salesman samples) come in.
Pro Tip: It may be the same as your fit size, but not always. Some designers choose a smaller size as it can look more appealing on a hanger, whereas some designers choose an average size so buyers can try it on.
A sample product in correct fabrics, trims, colors and fit used by a salesperson to sell and book orders or pre-orders (before production is made).
Pro Tip: Occasionally there are mistakes or changes in SMS that will be made in bulk production. While not ideal, buyers know this happens and with a simple explanation can often overlook it.
Want more sample examples? Here’s a quick list of the 12 Types of Garment Samples During Apparel Production.
A list of all the items in a shipment, specifying quantities, sizes, and descriptions of each product. It helps in tracking and verifying the contents of packages.
Pro Tip: As manufacturers handle multiple clients simultaneously, they may sometimes overlook small details. To avoid confusion, providing them with a packing list is helpful to minimize errors and delays.
A tax or tariff on goods that are transported across international borders. Tax rates are determined by HTS Code and vary tremendously based on product content, performance features, etc.
Example: Duty on a cotton shirt cotton will be different from the same shirt made in polyester. Duty on a jacket made with waterproof fabric will be different from the same jacket made from non-waterproof fabric.
Pro Tip: If you’re manufacturing overseas and don’t want to manage duty, request DDP / LDP pricing. You’ll still be paying it, but the cost will be bundled.
Codes that are used to classify internationally traded goods. HTS codes determine the duty rate.
Example: There are 108 search results for jacket HTS codes depending on many variables (raincoats, suit coats, coats made of wool or animal fibers, padded jackets with detachable sleeves, etc.)
Pro Tip: It can be overwhelming to know what HTS code to use, and using an incorrect code (whether intentionally to get a lower duty rate or unintentionally out of ignorance) can cause delays or penalties in customs. Make sure you use the correct code by working with a freight forwarder or consulting with your factory.
A third party service that manages shipping and importing. This includes freight logistics, insurance and duty (with correct HTS categorization).
Pro Tip: Many businesses work with a FF to manage imports because it’s not as simple as shipping goods from point A to B.
Here are just a few of the steps:
Pricing that includes material, labor and transportation to the COO (Country of Origin) exit port, but excludes shipping, duty, insurance or taxes. All costs and liabilities after exit port arrival are your responsibility.
Example: An FOB price will get you a finished product delivered to a port in China.
From there, it is your responsibility to:
(Fun) Pro Tip: The saying “a slow boat from China” originates from the fact that a product may spend between 30-45 days getting from China (or the COO) to you.
Pro Tip: Boats are slow but inexpensive for transport. Air freight will get your product delivered faster but will cost substantially more.
Pricing that includes all costs to produce and deliver the product to you. The factory (seller) is responsible for all costs and liabilities until the product is in your possession.
Pro Tip: Some factories don’t offer LDP/DDP pricing as it’s more work (even though they usually add markup). For many buyers however, it’s a great option as you don’t need infrastructure to manage shipping and importing.
Pricing of the product available for pick up by you (the buyer) at the factory. FGP / EXW excludes any transportation costs.
Manufacturing overseas can be overwhelming. Not sure if you’re ready to fuss with FOB, HTS codes and FF’s? Richard at A Better Lemonade Stand covers the pros and cons, his personal experience, and shares a free guide to 50 US Manufacturers.
A unique code assigned to each different fashion product to facilitate inventory management. SKUs help in tracking products, managing stock levels, and organizing items for efficient storage and retrieval.
Want to learn how to create them? Here’s my Guide on How to Create SKU Numbers in Fashion!
The allowable variation or deviation from a specified standard or measurement. It’s important in manufacturing to make sure the products meet defined quality criteria within acceptable limits.
I talk more about measurement tolerance in detail here on my Guide on How to Create Graded Specs in a Garment Tech Pack!
A predetermined standard representing the maximum acceptable number of defects or deviations in a batch of products during quality control inspections.
Example: Suppose a factory produces 10,000 t-shirts. The AQL is set at 2% for stitching defects, meaning up to 200 t-shirts can have minor stitching issues and still be accepted. If more than 200 have problems during inspection, the batch might be rejected or closely checked.
A global body that develops and publishes standards to ensure the quality, safety, and efficiency of products, services, and systems across various industries.
Fashion is a business. From sales, marketing, to branding – there’s an essential language of commerce. Navigate the fashion market and grasp the financial intricacies of the industry and let them know you mean business.
A document from a buyer to a supplier outlining the specific products, quantities, and prices agreed upon for purchase.
The total cost incurred to produce a fashion item, including manufacturing, materials, and labor.
Example: If a brand produces a jacket, the COGS would include all expenses directly tied to making that jacket. This could be things such as the cost of fabric, manufacturing labor, buttons, zippers, and any other materials used in its production. If the total cost to make one jacket is $50, then the COGS for that jacket is $50.
A document detailing all costs associated with producing a fashion item, helping in pricing decisions.
Here’s my Free Cost Sheet Template if you need one!
The recommended selling price set by the fashion item’s manufacturer.
The percentage or amount added to the production cost to determine the final selling price.
Example: Let’s say a fashion brand makes a jacket for $50. If they want to make a 50% profit on top of the production cost, they add a 50% markup. So, the selling price would be $75 ($50 production cost + $25 markup). The markup is the extra amount added to cover costs and make a profit.
The percentage of profit a fashion item generates, calculated as a proportion of the selling price.
The total cost of a fashion item, including production, shipping, and other associated costs.
The desired cost at which a fashion item should be produced to meet profitability goals.
The location or system where customers make purchases, such as a physical store or online platform.
Example: You go to a store, pick out a shirt, and pay for it at the cash register. That cash register is the Point of Sale (POS). It’s where the sale happens.
Transactions and relationships between two business entities.
Example: A fabric manufacturer (Business A) sells its materials to a fashion design company (Business B) for creating clothing. It’s a B2B (Business to Business) arrangement, where one business supplies goods to another.
Transactions and relationships between fashion businesses and end consumers.
Example: A clothing store (Business A) sells directly to individual customers (Consumers). When you buy a shirt from the store, it’s a B2C (Business to Consumer) transaction.
In the fashion industry, “carryover” refers to products or styles from a previous season that continue to be available for sale in the current or upcoming season. These are items that were not exclusive to a particular season but have proven to be popular or versatile enough to extend their shelf life.
A document showcasing a collection, including images, descriptions, and pricing, used for marketing to potential buyers.
The unique visual and conceptual elements that distinguish a fashion brand, including logos, colors, and messaging.
The specific demographic or audience a fashion brand aims to reach and appeal to.
Legal protections for unique symbols, names, or designs associated with a fashion brand.
A gathering for media professionals, influencers, and insiders to learn about and cover a fashion brand or event.
A temporary retail space where fashion brands can showcase and sell their products for a short period.
An occasion to introduce and showcase new products such as fashion designs or collections.
A key event in the fashion industry where models walk down a designated runway, showcasing the latest clothing and accessories from a designer.
An event where fashion designers or brands display and sell their products directly to consumers.
An exhibition where fashion brands showcase their products to potential wholesale buyers, retailers, and industry professionals.
Interested in attending one? Check out my Guide on Trade Shows first!
Congratulations, you now have a great foundation of fashion industry terminology and abbreviations to sound like a pro!
Remember, it’s ok not to know everything, and don’t feel like you have to memorize it all.
Just say, “I’ve never heard that term before, could you explain what it means?” or, “Oh, I’ve heard that, but always forget what it means – what is it again?”
